Life Above The 50th

A New Mexican Family Explores Life in Northern British Columbia

History of Graham River Farm September 5, 2008

tellesca @ 10:14 am

History of Graham River Farm

Graham River Farm is a beautiful 600 acre piece of land bordered on the south side by the swiftly flowing Graham River.  The closest town, Fort St John, BC, which is near the beginning of the Alaska Highway, is a two-hour drive – about 95 miles from the farm.  The land is treed with poplars, spruce, a few tamaracks, and cottonwoods by the river.  A series of plateaued fields slope downwards to a flat central area by the river, where the central buildings still stand.

The land was partially cleared in the 50’s by a rancher.  In the Spring of 1972, a small group of Christians arrived to look at the property, and it was purchased by one of them, John Vander Ploeg, for 15,000.  The goal of these people was to build their own houses, grow their own food, eat, live, and worship together.  They built log cabins with spruce logs harvested on site.  They tilled the fields and raised amazing vegetables and bountiful crops of grain.  Animals provided eggs, milk, and meat, and the fall harvest always included a number of wild animals – moose, elk, deer, and bear.  An airstrip was built.  The numbers grew quickly, and community guidelines became a list of rules.  The Vanderploueghs wanted out, and asked the farm for their money back, and then some.  Of course there was no money on the farm, so the men went to work fighting fires, planting trees, and whatever else they could find to raise the money to purchase the farm.  After this incident, in the early 80’s, the remaining residents formed the Graham River Christian Society so that no single person could own the land or control the farm’s destiny again.

At this point, there were just under 200 people living on the property.  The cabins were concentrated in a small space around a central area, known as “the courtyard”, where the two principle buildings sat – the tabernacle, and the school.  The tabernacle was a long, low-ceiling log building with a large kitchen, and dining hall, and a bell at the top to summon people to eat.  The school was built afterwards and by that time the farm had purchased a sawmill.  It was two story post-and-beam construction with rough vertical siding.  In addition to a school, it was also where meetings were held every  Sunday morning and  Wednesday evening.  None of the cabins had indoor plumbing, running water, or electricity, although the farm ran a generator which supplied power to the main buildings during the day.  There was no bridge to the farm.  In the summer, a large tractor and wagon transported passengers and goods across the river.  Those in need of service honked their horns and waited fifteen minutes (hopefully).  In the winter, an ice bridge was built and vehicles could be driven across.  Certain times of the year were tricky.  In the spring, a blue boat dubbed “Morning Glory” with a small engine ferried people across the swiftly-flowing water.  Some days, there was no crossing at all.

Near the end of the 80’s, there was a mass exodus, and when the dust settled, no one was left.  Several couples acted as caretakers, coming out on week-ends to check on the place. One day when no one was around, an angry former resident came on to the property and lit fire to many of the large buildings.   The tabernacle, school, large barns, and several cabins burned to the ground.

In the early 90’s, a small group of people had a dream to revive Graham River Farm.  The dream of this group of musicians was to found a music school on the property, and “The Shepherd’s School of Music” was formed.  One of the leaders of this group was a woman who had also been part of Graham’s founding days, Ethelwyn Davison.  Classically trained, a former guest vocalist with the Philadelphia Harmonic Orchestra, and a vocal teacher, Mrs. Davison was passionate about music.  The school took off like lightning.  Young people came from all over, and the men on the farm could scarcely build fast enough to house them.  Two-story houses were built at this time, and none were ever completed.  The farm was a hodge-podge of two different generations.  Music lessons took place in the old cabins all around the farm.

Towards the end of the 90’s, the community again began to decline.  In 2001, Mrs Davison was diagnosed with cancer.  Her youngest son, David Smith and his wife, Susan and their four children, William, Megan, Alex and Allison, moved from Fort St John to take care of her.  She died in 2002, survived by her husband, Durill Davison.  Shortly after her death, the Board of Directors for the Graham River Christian Society decided to sell the property, and told the few remaining families that they needed to move.  “The farm has reached its critical mass.  It can only go downhill from here,” were the words of one board member.  David Smith and his family, as well as David’s father and the other families who were still living at Graham River Farm, refused to move, as the Board had no legal right to sell the farm without the sgreement of all the members of the society.  In 2003, several people filed a court order freezing the sale of the farm, and after three years of back and forth between the lawyers, a sale price was negotiated.  In 2006, the Board agreed to sell the property for $250,000.  Dave, Sue, and four others formed the non-profit society “South Fork Christian Society”, to purchase the land so that it would not be an asset owned by an individual, but that many people could enjoy it.

Graham River Farm Today

The Smith family has lived here alone since Fall 2002.  William is now 17, Megan is 15, Allison is 12, and Alex is 10.  Sue homeschools the four children in addition to caretaking a farm and bookkeeping for their business, Cimarron Camp Services.  The previous residents had begun a camp in the late 90’s to provide housing for oilfield workers in the area, but the business was poorly run, and was operating in the red.  Dave and Sue have built the business into a profitable enterprise, providing their family’s income as well as putting money into the Society.

There is great deal of clean-up to do from two generations of failed communal efforts, but there is also much history.  It is not a question of recreating the past, but envisioning the future.  Dave and Sue do not see this property as their own, but their dream is for it to be used for a positive purpose, and envision a retreat center in the future.  Their gift for hospitality has formed relationships with many people who are interested in this idea. We feel fortunate to be here, and are excited to see what lies ahead for Graham River Farm.

Dave and Sue Smith with their dog, Casper

Dave and Sue Smith with their dog, Casper

 

28 Responses to “History of Graham River Farm”

  1. you should check your sources of information before you start publishing things like this… so many many errors! Why not ask more than David and Susan what happened as they were not even there for any of the interesting parts…. like whatever happend to the 90’s a music school! That’s the best you can come up with??

    Such a slant they like to put on things! Really phenominal!

    Lovely story though, even if half of it is make-believe.

  2. Tony Buerge Says:

    Hi nice history, I was just thinking about this world and the mess its in, the rat race that I am a part of, the cost to live my lifestye and I looked up graham river It is good to see that you are doing well.We Have been blessed and our family well. Tony

  3. tellesca Says:

    Hi Doesitmatter,
    I understand and agree that any single event can be viewed numerous ways. But rather than approach it with anonymous comments like that, why not email me and tell me your perspective? I’ve got nothing to gain or lose by what’s written above, and it certainly seems to be irritating you to some degree, so set the record straight…

  4. tellesca Says:

    Hello Tony,
    Wow, really nice to hear from you. The main reason we made the move here from comfortable suburbia living was a lifestyle choice for us and our children. It’s a little more extreme than we would normally choose (temperatures, winters, distance from conveniences), but in some ways that forces us to learn to do things for ourselves, which is so rewarding, and to teach our children to do the same. Graham is still an amazingly beautiful, peaceful place and we are happy to be here. Are you and your family still in Alaska? Whereabouts? We lived there for a while, and loved it.
    Haidi

  5. Lisa (Schmidt) Rattai Says:

    This is a great website about Graham. I lived there for 3 years, from 1995-1998, and I loved it. I graduated highschool there, and made many lifelong friends, and learned many things — cooking, how to make cheese, yogurt, butter, how to can vegetables…the wisdom i have gained from GRF is priceless. I have amazing memories from there.
    I have spoken with a few people who used to live at Graham, and we all agreed that we would love to see how it looks now…the buildings, since they have been remodelled. The Tab, some of the cabins and houses. And pictures of the camp! I worked there in 1998 for a few months, and would like to see the progress that has been made since I left 10 years ago.
    Anyways, kudos to an awesome site. Keep posting pictures!
    Take care,
    Lisa (Schmidt) Rattai

  6. Aimee Says:

    Hey doesitmatter-

    Go get your own blog.

    There are several hundred ’sources of information’ out there, as each persons’ experience tells a different story. This just happens to be one of them, and it’s an excellent overview.

    This blog is the Telles family’s little corner of the world, so butt out if you can’t spread any sunshine.

  7. tellesca Says:

    Hi Lisa!
    I remember you from when I visited Aimee, one week in winter. You learned how to make cheese? That is such an art. There are still cheesemaking supplies in the basement of the old Tabernacle. Makes me want to get a cow… Nick is trying to hold me back.
    Most of the buildings are not remodelable. We are fixing up the best one, and every time we turn around, something else needs fixing. The wiring is quite terrifying! But yes, I will take some photos of the not so picturesque aspects of GRF, and put them up. Will get to it some time.
    Thanks for the encouragement!
    Haidi

  8. Lisa (Schmidt) Rattai Says:

    haidi…which was the best house? i used to live with michelle (i cna’t remember her last name) in the house beside cabin 12…i would say that one or the wommack’s house were the nicest ones. i would LOVE to see pics. i think most of us ex-grahamites don’t even care if the pics aren’t ‘picturesque’…we would just love to see memories from what we used to call home.
    about the cheese — natalie wommack took charge of the milkroom when i lived there, and we made some pretty amazing cheeses….gouda, monterey jack, of course cheddar, white cheddar, and the list goes on and on….the coldroom downstairs was FULL of rounds of cheeses! and they were very yummy, too.
    take care,
    lisa

  9. Adriel Says:

    Hi Nick and Haidi, wow Jody Magruga told me about this website, I love your blog and the pictures. I visited Graham back in 1997 when it was considered the “happening” place and the envy of all of us stuck on boring farms :)

    Funny how we return to our roots when we have our own children and suddenly we want them to experience what we did in our childhood minus a few things of course!

    Ben and I have 2 great boys and are still living in Wasillla. Take care, Adriel Grimshaw

    • tellesca Says:

      Hi Adriel! It’s been a long time… Glad to hear you are doing well and still loving AK. It’s a great place. Yes, kids really change your life and make you examine your choices. It is amazing being in a rural setting after years of living in cities. It is so peaceful. Graham is not anything like it used to be, but we hope something completely different lies ahead. We have lots of plans next summer for continued clean-up, and laying new foundations. We’ll keep you posted! Hello to Ben,
      Haidi

  10. Leah Says:

    I loved reading all of your stories and the background history of Graham. I would love to come and visit!

  11. hello well this is the 3rd time i have tried to write this. I hope that this is the charm. well… I have had the priviledge of spending some time on the farm with my family . My wife is Lori Vega Kachowski and our 3 children . at the time it was only 2 children. while we were there we stayed in one of the larger homes . we took nice long walks, went fishing and swimming in the beautiful river. we walked to the grave yard and paid respect to my wifes sister . My wifes mother was also recently laid to rest there. It was amazing to see the history of the comunity. As we walked around my wife was like our tour guide. While I was there I felt this overwhelming joy and peace to be there. It is such an amazing beautiful place. I pray that my family could be a part its future. God bless. and sorry for the bad spelling

  12. tellesca Says:

    Hi Jeremy,
    Lori and I had fun playing together as kids – actually, we were friends in the Yukon as well. We ran into Ralph Vega, Kim and her family in town the other day and had a good chat. . I’m looking forward to spring, to taking long walks again, to visiting the graveyard on the hill. We have a good foot and a half of snow right now, so it’s pretty buried. You are right – this is a beautiful place. Thanks for sharing about your visit here.
    Haidi

  13. Dorcas Robles Lopez Says:

    Hi, Y’all! I spent 3 glorious years at Graham studying music. I am so thankful for those years and can honestly say they were the best years of my life….so far. I was there before there was electricity and running water. I hauled water to my cabin in a 5 gallon bucket on a sled in the deep snow. I studied by a dim gas lamp on the wall. I watched in excitement along with many others as the guys first dug ditches for pipes to bring water to our first laundry house. I worked hard in the garden in the summer, helped plant potatoes, canned, dried herbs, and stocked the root cellar for the winter. I waited excitedly to see if the guys had shot a moose or bear. I took the guys water and snacks when in they were out all night it seemed, baling hay. I went on countless hayrides and walks. There was always a tingling excitement to know that you had to have at least one guy with you with a gun in case of bears. I remember one day when a strangely behaving beaver wandered into camp. I also remember vivedly having to get up at 5:oo to either do laundry, or make breakfast. I swear it only snowed on the mornings I had to go make breakfast – so I had to trudge a new path in the snow for everyone else. I remember the Canadian geese flying overhead, and the breathtaking Northern Lights. I cherish the memories of inner tubing down the river. I loved the thought of an “ice bridge” in the winter, and always wondered what the river would be like in the spring when the ice melted. I remember sneaking across the river with Mary Barkman Troyer to drink wine coolers and eat O’Ryan’s chips. I remember the excited atmosphere when we were going to “build the tabernacle”. I loved staying up all night with the girls to “check to see if the horse had had its baby”. I remember sleeping in the barn on hay bales…..for only a couple of hours. I remember setting up a tent in the middle of winter right by our cabin and sleeping in it. We thought this was an adventure. I remember tanning at the “cable car”. I remember when I first got there taking in the beauty of the place and thinking “I’m gonna be living in a puzzle”. I remember how it never got dark in the summer, so I would be bopping around at midnight. I remember, oh how I remember Graham!!! I hope one day I can take my children there.

  14. tellesca Says:

    Dorcas, those are such great memories – thanks for sharing. People who lived there during the Music School years have such good stories. It sounded like a fun time to live there, and to be young. It is still an amazingly beautiful place; it is impossible to forget. I hope, too that you have the chance to go back and visit with your children some day, as do we.
    Haidi

  15. Dorcas Robles Lopez Says:

    I’m wondering if “doesitmatter” ever lived at Graham. I’m also curious as to why he/she is so bitter about it all. Why make vague references to supposed lies? Why not just come out and say what is bothering you? I hate that you feel that way. I hang tightly to my Graham memories. Such good times in a beautiful place. Sigh…………

  16. Kirt Fadely Says:

    Wow! I am just starting to read this site. My family lived at Graham River for about a year around 1976-77. My folk’s names are Kenneth and Loydeen and my sister’s names are Christine and Sally.

    I too remember the farm with awe and lots of memories. From the tabernacle and 3 church services a week to milking the cows everyday with Paul, Danny, and an Tim Estes. I was 14 at the time and was one of the kids that got to chop wood for the stoves Saturday morning. It was an amazing place and time. I still tell my kids about it every now and then and laugh at the looks on their faces.

    Catch you later, Kirt.

  17. So great to find Graham River Farm online!
    We came to the farm in 1972; and spent the very first winter out there. We came from MA, in a converted school bus, with 8 of our children: we lived there until 1976, when we moved to town and later to the Lower Mainland of B.C. Canada.
    You might like to read all about our adventure, on one of my websites (I’ve sent the address, above).
    So happy to hear that “little David” (as we called him), lives on the farm with his wife and family: God’s richest blessings to them!

    • Mary Cox (Girouard) Says:

      As a child of 10 years of age when I moved to GRF with my family (mother is the above reply) in 1972, I saw things from a child’s eyes. There were good times and bad times. Things that could be shared all these years later, and things that are best left quiet and private. Overall, it was an experience I would have never gotten to live through if my parents hadn’t made the decision to move us 8 children to GRF. If Janice Stutzman is out there….I’d love to hear from you!

  18. GRF Dave Says:

    I am finally getting around to reading the above article! The time here with Nick & Haidi was a pleasure not easily forgotten. While they have moved on, their personal touches will always be here. Graham River was, is and always will be, bigger than the people living there at the moment. The ones living on the property are merely the caretakers of a dream and a vision. The ones who realize that are the ones who got the most out of GRF. The ones who left bitter and angry are the ones who, more often than not, wanted something material out of it. Maybe security, maybe money, maybe babysitters, it could be anything. The the ones who carry the vision in their hearts and live their life to create that vision and want to see it through to fruition regardless if they are here at the end or not will be the ones who are blessed.

    I consider myself blessed to be a part of the early days at GRF and again to see it transition into the next phase. We are not going to be the last ones here and we certainly will not be here the longest. But we will do everything in our power to see the vision, that people gave their lives, money and families for, carried out and lifted high for all to see.

    David Smith

  19. Rose Ong-Girouard Says:

    Hi All,
    My name is Rose Ong (Girouard), the oldest of the eight children that Lorraine spoke of above. My memories of Graham River were all fond ones. I only lived there from 1972-1975 and then moved north to Hoonah, Alaska. It seems such a shame that your time at Graham was so short. Thank you for your recollections; reminded me of a simpler, more peaceful way of life I once embraced.

  20. I’m enclosing the addy to one of my websites: it is my total, up-to-date biography……..you might want to skip down to where our family converted a school bus and all 10 of us, headed for the Canadian border… heading to the Graham River Farm… and after.
    “HI” to Tony Buerge……..I remember you and your oldest sister and brother, Danny, I think. I remember your Dad and one of your little brothers, and I will always remember your Mom, Susie, and your youngest brother. Hope that all is well with you; that you are being blessed in Alaska…and, are also a blessing.

  21. I can’t figure out just ”why” my website addy doesn’t appear: I must be doing something wrong.
    How about this:

    http.//members.tripod.com/~lorgrd/home.html

    There are well over 400 pages… and growing!

  22. Paul Petroccione Says:

    I’m the Paul that Kirk says he used to go with to milk cows. My wife, Linda and I lived at Graham from 73 to 83. Lorraine, when we first arrived (in our early 20’s) your husband was building our cabin, while we lived with someone else. It was 30 below when we arrived and stayed that way for several weeks.
    Obviously I remember you well, David. It was a priveledge to have you in our home for that period of time when your folks were traveling.
    When we left in 1983 many of the first generation were still there. To put in a nutshell my reason for leaving, I’d say that we had begun to have way too much power and influence over one another’s lives–probably a weak area in many small communities, especially “religious” ones.
    There are many things about our time at Graham River that I’ll always value, and some things I wouldn’t repeat if you paid me, but I suppose that’s life.
    It was fun to visit this site and read what you all had to say.

    • tellesca Says:

      Hello Paul. This blog was written by Haidi Wimbush – you were my Fourth Grade teacher. It was a great to hear from you. Where are you and your family now?

  23. Paul Petroccione Says:

    Hi Haidi, I remember you and your brother and mom and dad. They actually came to visit us once here years ago. We live in northern NY state, about a half hour from the Canadian border, near Ottawa. Our kids are all grown, of course, three out of four are married and all are out of the house.

  24. Brentt Allen Says:

    I was at GRF for roughly 2 months, Sept-Nov of ‘95 and it really was like Lisa and Dorcas described. I think the thing that stands out most in my mind is when I was out cutting firewood on one of the seismic lines with all the fellas, we had a Bull Moose come down the mountain, and as everyone else around me was climbing the nearest tree, I was standing speechless with an idling chainsaw in my hand. Of course, I’d never seen a Bull Moose before, much less that close to me. He couldn’t have been 5o meters/yards from me and I didn’t even blink, and he was gone. Northern lights? I remember that too. I also remember fishing for Trout on the river, and hunting Grouse on the airstrip. Feeding the horses, cows, chickens and other farm animals, and baling hay on machines pulled by yoke oxen.

    GRF is a fond 2 months of my memories. I still keep in contact with several of the people I came to know, and love while living there.

    If I had a chance, I’d go back to that time and live it all over again without question.


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